Burnett Blog

Have you ever clipped home decorating ideas from magazines or books? If you have, your going to love Pinterest, in fact, millions of people have fell in love with this online pinboard. Pinterest is a virtual file cabinet for all your favorite things!

Users are finding fun, easy decorating ideas and saving them. You can also save patterns, furniture, and accessories that catch your eye.

Pinterest isn’t just for home decorating, many followers are finding recipes, fashion tips and things to do. How do you get started? Request an invitation here.

After twenty five years in the real estate brokerage business I can say I definitely have seen my share of basements both wet and dry. In my experience, 99% of water problems originate at grade level outside the foundation and in most cases the homeowner can fix the problem with minimum cost.

There are times when a professional, such as a waterproofing contractor should be considered, such as in situations involving naturally occurring high ground water, or if the homeowner’s efforts haven’t worked. If water infiltration is the result of something other than groundwater, like a burst pipe, clogged sewer or drain it is usually best to contact a licensed plumber.

How do you become a basement moisture detective? It’s so simple, and the fix usual can be equally simple. First look closely at where the water is coming in. Is water filling up a window well and leaking in through the window? Is the water seeping through the concrete foundation in one corner or one area of the foundation? These are by far the most common and they are usually associated with periods or events of heavy moisture in the form of rain or snow melt. Here in the Midwest it is common to not see any moisture in a basement for years and then suddenly it will spring a leak.

A basement is a hole in the ground that has a foundation sitting in it. If water gets into the “hole” and remains there, it will eventually find its way into the cracks or seams that are a part of any foundation system. The key to no leaks is to keep the water out of the “hole”. Once you identify where the leak is on the inside of the foundation go outside and look at that location from the outside. Chances are high that when rain or snow is hitting the ground it is draining towards the foundation. You can stop the water by simply getting it to go away from the “hole”. Your two biggest causes are clogged or leaking gutters, your lawn or landscaping, or cement work that drains the water towards, not away from the foundation.

It’s possible the landscaping on your twenty year old home has “sunk” and water is draining the wrong way. Take it out, put in enough dirt so that you have a slope away from the house for at least six to eight feet and replace the landscaping. The new soil will settle, so get a good slope that will allow for that settling. You can do this yourself or you can hire a landscape crew for a fraction of the cost of a waterproofing job.

If you have sidewalks or driveways that have settled and need to be “tilted” back to the proper position, get a bid first from a mud jacking company. In some cases you may need a concrete contractor to replace a portion or all of the concrete to get it shedding water in the right direction. Even this may be more affordable then a basement waterproofing.

If the gutters are dumping water at the foundation they need to be fixed or replaced.  Extensions have to be attached and long enough to get the water far enough away from the house so that it drains away, usually 4-6 feet. Gutters can be installed or repaired by handy homeowners, but are relatively inexpensive to have installed or fixed by professionals. Clean out gutters in the spring and fall. This is the easiest way to keep your gutters draining water from your roof and away from your basement. A gentle rain may seem like not much of a problem, but keep in mind a typical ranch style home will collect the equivalent of a 55 gallon drum of water in a one inch rain.

Keep window wells covered. These are natural traps for water and can be protected with inexpensive covers from the home improvement or hardware store.

When we moved into our lovely, but neglected 120 year old home seven years ago, we experienced about two months of torrential downpours. Upon entering the basement one day I saw several pools of water standing on the basement floor. As I looked around I didn’t see any obvious signs of water entering through the foundation walls, it appeared to be coming up through the floor. In the next couple of weeks, I was able to get the gutters unclogged and mended where they were leaking. Most of the water disappeared immediately. In the spring I re-graded around the entire house and replaced one section of walkway. During the  Floods of ’08, our basement remained as dry as my favorite Cabernet.

Before paying thousands of dollars to a waterproofing company try these simple ideas first. You will be surprised how a few simple, inexpensive steps can turn your basement from soggy to dry and livable.

Doug Burnett is the Broker/Owner of Burnett Realty, a residential real estate company located in Des Moines, IA.  Contact Doug or one of his professional agents for all your real estate needs (or for suggestions on keeping your basement dry).

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Burnett Realty •  10200 Hickman Court, Suite 100 • Clive, IA 50325 • 515.334.4900
Main Site: www.burnettrealty.net
Licensed to Sell Real Estate in the State of Iowa. Doug Burnett, Broker/Owner
If you are interested in a career in real estate, click here.

Information in this blog is believed to be accurate, Burnett Realty is not responsible for errors and omissions. Information is deemed reliable , but not is not guaranteed.  Please consult your Realtor, Attorney, Accountant, or other Financial adviser.

Conduct a do-it-yourself home security check by walking around your house to assess what needs to be done to reduce the risk of a break-in.

1. Keep your home well-maintained on the outside

Burglars want an easy target. Stand on the street outside your house and ask yourself: Does my property look neglected, hidden, or uninhabited? A front door or walkway that’s obscured by shrubbery offers crooks the perfect cover they need while they break a door or window. To improve security, trim shrubs away from windows and widen front walks.

2. Install motion detector lights

All sides of your house should be well-lit with motion-activated lighting, not just the front. Simple motion-activated floodlights cost less than $50 each, and installing them is an easy DIY job if the wiring is already in place.

3. Store your valuables

Thieves want easy-to-grab electronics, cash, jewelry, and other valuables, though some are not above running down the street with your flat-screen TV. Most make a beeline for the master bedroom, because that’s where you’re likely to hide spare cash, jewelry, even guns. 

Tour each room and ask yourself: is there anything here that I can move to a safe deposit box? Installing a home safe ($150 to $500) that’s bolted to your basement slab is a good repository for items you don’t use on a daily basis.

4. Secure your data

While you probably won’t be putting your home computer in a safe anytime soon, take steps to back up the personal information stored on it. Password protect your login screen, and always shut off your computer when not in use (you’ll save energy, too!) Don’t overlook irreplaceable items whose value may hard to quantify, like digital photos.

5. Prepare ahead of time in case the worst happens

• Take a photo or video inventory of items of value in your home, and store the file online or in your home safe.

• Check that you’re properly insured for theft. Note that high-ticket items in your home office, such as computers, professional camera equipment, or other business essentials, may require an additional rider or a separate policy.

Joseph D’Agnese is a journalist and book author who has written numerous articles on home improvement. He lives in North Carolina.

© Copyright 2011 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS^®

There’s that big empty space on your wall at home. Or you’re tired of looking at the same lousy faded posters you’ve had since your first apartment. What to do? You can’t just drive over to the Des Moines Art Center and bring home the Picasso or Matisse from their collection – although that would be very cool if you could!

Photo by B_Zedan at Flickr.com

Instead, I offer you advice on building your own impressive display of art in your home without spending too much. Here are ten tips, in increasing order of expense, to fill your walls with eye pleasing pieces. Every one of these ways of buying art you can do. I know because my wife and I have filled our home with original art using these methods.

1. Very important: From now till forever I ask you to commit to buying real art, from real living artists. If you have met and talked with the artist, you get a story in addition to the picture. You’ll also get tremendous satisfaction from paying an artist for their work, gaining a new friendship for no extra charge. So, no more posters please!
2. Family pictures. You have them in your closet, in albums & shoe boxes, and under your bed. Put the best of the bunch in non-matching, inexpensive frames you can buy at stores like Target or Pier 1 imports. Fill a wall or stairwell with your family and dead relatives. Every picture tells a story.
3. You kid’s art from school or art camp. Pick one or two of their best efforts and get them matted and framed. Honor their creativity by placing their art not on the refrigerator, but on the mantle over the fireplace. Their finger paints look just like abstract art – without costing millions of dollars.
   

   Photo by Cafemama at Flickr.com

4. Photos you have taken. Take the best digital vacation picture you have and get it printed at a professional photography studio such as this one. It can be enlarged to the size that works best for the size wall you have. Then get your printed picture professionally matted and framed. Now you’re the artist!
5. Purchase from college art students. Art students create works for their senior and graduate thesis shows. You can buy pieces (if they are willing) once their gallery show is over. This could be a student’s first experience of art meeting commerce. How exciting!
6. Support artists by buying original art on the internet. You don’t get to know the artist, but the prices can be very reasonable. Two sources are Etsy.com and Artspace Marketplace.
7. Buy a print or smaller size work from an artist if you can’t swing the price of their paintings.
8. Attend –and purchase art – at the Des Moines Arts Festival, June 24 – 26th. Most of the artists sell different sized pieces of their work at different price levels. For that big, pricey piece you’ve fallen in love with, many of the festival artists will offer a lay away arrangement. They’ll ship the art piece to you when it is paid in full.
9. Get over to Artfest Midwest – The Other Art Show. Held the same weekend as the Des Moines Arts Festival, it has the reputation of lesser priced art from artists all over the Midwest. Held at the Iowa State Fairgrounds.
10. Similar to Art Festivals, most art galleries will let you purchase original art on lay away. They will keep your artwork in storage as you pay for it in installments over six months to a year. After the final payment, you take the piece home and own it forever – interest free.

Photo by ooh_food at Flickr.com

Collecting art within your budget: you can do this! Real art from artists you know will always give satisfaction and pleasure. And it can be priced right for your pocketbook. Now in a couple years you and I can have talk about how to change your art around so it looks fresh and new all over again.

Patrick Van Nice is an interior designer in the Des Moines metro. For more information, contact Patrick at: 515.577.5562; by Email: patrick@interiordesigniowa or Web: www.interiordesigniowa.com

To get rid of wood-destroying insects (WDIs) and other pests, consider an approach—”integrated pest management”—that combines common sense with prevention techniques, conventional pesticides, and green alternatives, such as natural plant extracts and minerals.

Back in the late 20th century, spraying or pumping poisons became the widespread method of choice as home and garden pesticides grew into a $1.4 billion industry.

But today, amid growing concerns about the dangers of toxins to people, animals, and the environment, homeowners and pest-control professionals are looking for ways to reduce the amount of pesticides used by incorporating a range of treatments that are often less toxic but still effective.

Conventional pesticide treatment

With conventional pest control, the name of the game is extermination. The operator kills the insects with chemicals—often applied as sprays—and reapplies the pesticides on a regular schedule to prevent another infestation. That means you’re paying for treatment whether or not insects are actually present.

The risks of unnecessary exposure to pesticides aren’t to be taken lightly. While perhaps effective in the short run, pesticides have been shown to produce long-term consequences, including adverse effects on the endocrine, reproductive, and nervous systems of people and animals. Children are especially sensitive to the toxins found in many pesticides because their immune systems, organs, brains, and nervous systems are still developing.

Although the Environmental Protection Agency regulates all pesticides for safety, they remain potentially deadly to humans and harmful to the environment—especially if misapplied.

A less-toxic approach

The new buzzword in the pest-control industry these days is integrated pest management. Rather than merely blasting pests with poisons, IPM uses a combination of strategies to control pests and includes homeowners as partners in the process.

IPM consists of three basic steps: identifying pests; preventing pests; and—as needed—treating them.

What to expect from a pest-control pro

Just because a pest-control company says it practices IPM doesn’t make it so. The first thing to look for is knowledge about pests. An operator must be able to tell different insects apart and understand their habits and habitats to decide how best to help you control them.

IPM stresses prevention. The pest-control representative should inspect your home for signs of infestation and then recommend steps you can take to eliminate pests by denying food, water, and access. Example: Deterring termites and carpenter ants by keeping the soil around your foundation dry.

Although prevention is the preferred solution, the professional may need to take immediate action to treat an existing infestation. That may include using pesticides, but only as a last resort against an active infestation and never as a matter of routine. Ongoing monitoring of pest activity by you and your pest control operator determines if or when pesticides are reapplied.

When using pesticides, the exterminator should choose the least toxic product possible, apply as little as possible, and treat the smallest area possible—just cracks and crevices, for example, instead of an entire baseboard. Baits—gels, pastes, and granules applied directly or contained in bait stations—are preferred over sprays because they reduce exposure to fumes and residue.

Natural alternatives

If you’re uncomfortable with even limited use of pesticides, ask the pest-control expert about products that rely on natural substances for their active ingredients.

Examples include boric acid, a naturally occurring mineral, and essential oils, derived from the natural defense systems of plants. Although slower acting than chemical pesticides, products made from natural substances can be highly effective.

A word of caution: Even pesticides made from natural substances can be harmful if mishandled. They are, after all, intended to kill living organisms. In addition, some products include chemical additives that make the natural substance more effective, but which also are toxic.

Costs vary

How much you’ll pay to solve your problem will depend on the type of insect, the size of the infestation, and the type and intensity of treatment. Many pest-control pros offer free inspections, but the bill for actual service can range from less than $100 to spot treat an ant nest to several thousand dollars to eradicate termites and offer ongoing protection.

Compare estimates from several pest-control companies. A few national pest-control companies, such as Orkin and Terminix, provide free online estimates. But the best way to find out the extent of your problem and the options available is to have an expert come to your home and do an on-site inspection.

Make sure the company is licensed and a member of a local, state, or national pest management association. You may also want to check the company’s status with state regulatory agencies for consumer affairs and agriculture.

Brad Broberg is a freelance writer from Federal Way, Wash. A former newspaper reporter and editor, he writes about business and real estate for a variety of publications including the Puget Sound Business Journal.

If you’re planning a new deck or upgrading an old one, the decking material is the most important decision you’ll make. Not too long ago, redwood and cedar were just about the only options. Synthetics, such as composite and PVC decking, and tropical hardwoods, such as ipe and mahogany, offer ease of maintenance and longevity that put the traditional favorites in the shade.

These new contenders are pricier initially, but don’t have the annual maintenance costs of softwood decks. In some cases, the overall cost (initial costs plus annual maintenance) of a wood deck can exceed those of a composite or PVC deck after only a few years.

For example, the cost of cedar decking is approximately $1,700 for a 16×20-foot deck. The same deck covered with composite decking would cost $3,200—a hefty $1,500 more.

However, to keep the cedar looking good, it should be cleaned and resealed every year, at a cost of $90 to $100 if you do the job yourself. Add your valuable time to the out-of-pocket expense, and the price gap between wood and maintenance-free synthetic decking grows smaller with each passing year.

Pressure-treated wood

Made of fir permeated with anti-rot and insecticide agents, pressure-treated decking is a low-cost favorite. The anti-rot treatment once included arsenic, but since 2004 relies on less poisonous agents, such as copper, which poses a health hazard only if burned. The basic tan or brown color of pressure-treated decking can be enhanced with stain. Pressure-treated lumber can last for decades, but requires refinishing with a clear sealer or stain every other year.

Cost: About $2.35 per sq. ft. for material only, $3.80 per sq. ft. installed.

Cedar

The natural beauty of real wood is unmatched. In addition, this perennial decking favorite is inexpensive and easy to work with—a good choice for the do-it-yourselfer. Buy the darker-colored heartwood—anything else is sapwood and can rot within a few years. Look for “heartwood common,” which has more heartwood than the cheaper “construction common.” Expect annual refinishing and a life of 15 to 20 years.

Cost: About $3.75 per sq. ft. for material only, $5.35 installed.

Redwood

Once the very last word in decking, redwood is expensive and now available only on the West Coast. It’s lightweight, strong, and easy to work with. Select only high-grade decking lumber with little of the cream-colored sapwood, which can deteriorate rapidly when exposed to the elements. The darker-colored heartwood is naturally rot-resistant. With regular maintenance, redwood will last 15 to 20 years.

Cost: About $7.75 per sq. ft. for material only, $9 installed.

Vinyl

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) decking is the new kid on the block and rapidly gaining favor as a material that is as close to maintenance-free as decking will ever be. PVC has no wood content. Premium varieties have a cellular core wrapped with an exterior layer of solid PVC and come with a 25-year warranty. Color options include white, gray, browns, and tans.

Cost: About $5.95 per sq. ft. for material only, $9.60 installed.

Composite

Made of wood fiber combined with recycled polyethylene, composite decking is a good-looking, low-maintenance material. Composites come in a broad range of colors and textures that closely approximate real wood. It also offers design versatility: Pros have apparatus for heating planks so they can be bent to make eye-catching in-laid designs.

Premium varieties come with a 25-year warranty. Although maintenance is low, the wood content can host mold if not cleaned with a deck wash every three to four years.

Cost: About $6.60 per sq. ft. for material only, $9.90 installed.

Ipe

A popular South American hardwood, ipe is beautiful, naturally resistant to rot, and durable. It’s also extremely hard, making installation labor-intensive. To maintain its rich appearance, ipe must be sealed every year. It can last 25 years or more.

Because it’s imported, its price can fluctuate. Reliable lumber suppliers should offer assurance that these woods are seeded or naturally renewed. To confirm that the supplier engages in sustainable practices, check in with the Forest Stewardship Council.

Cost: About $12 per sq. ft. for material only, $22 installed.

Fastener costs

Deck screws are the cheapest option, and are reflected in the installation prices above. Although non-corroding, strong, and easy to install, they leave pockmarks where water and debris can gather.

Clip-style hidden fasteners eliminate this problem, but add $2 to $3 per sq. ft. to the cost of professional installation. Saltwater conditions are tough on fasteners. Some builders err on the side of caution by using stainless-steel screws covered with a plug, a method that costs about $5 per sq. ft.

The cost of maintenance

Wood decking of any type requires annual refinishing to hold its original luster. If you do it yourself, plan on paying about $13 per 100 square feet for deck cleaner, $15 for sealer. If you’ve skipped a season, add $10 per 100 square feet for brightener.

In tough climates or when maintenance has been long deferred, a wood deck will need to be washed, stripped, sanded, and resealed, a process that can cost $2.50 per sq. ft. if you hire it out. Do that twice on a cedar deck and you would have been better off buying synthetic decking that needs only an occasional washing and has a life expectancy of 25 years.

New on the market

The popularity of decking projects has led to new products appearing on the market. Although yet to stand the test of time, these varieties may be worth considering:

• Aluminum decking comes coated with polyurea to eliminate the “ping” sound of metal, aid traction, and keep the material cool.

• Wood decking infused with glass (via silica infusion and microwaving) offers greater strength and low maintenance.

• Thermally cured wood decking gets a non-toxic heating and sealing treatment that makes it resistant to insects, fungus, and mold.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. He recently added a composite deck to his Olympia, Wash., home.

Hello! I’m Patrick Van Nice, a residential interior designer in the Des Moines metro. I want to use my first time posting here at Burnett Blog to pass on a few tips to help you get started thinking about how to improve your home’s interior.

When starting out and not knowing where to begin on a design project, it’s helpful to be open minded, being a sponge for new possibilities in color, furniture, and room design. Here are some tips to get you started:

• Go to your local bookstore or supermarket checkout and purchase a variety of home improvement and interior design magazines (listed below)
• Go through these magazines and start ripping out the pictures and photographs of rooms you like. Put them all in a folder and call it something clever like “Room Ideas”. The more pictures the better. You don’t have to find the one perfect picture. You might like the colors in one photo and the furniture in another. There might be a room that you like the look of and you can’t even describe why you like it. That’s ok!
• If you visit decorating websites, some allow you to create your own Ideabook on that site to capture images you want to see again the next time you visit their site. This is a real time saver!
• Most of the websites have a way for you to email to yourself or a friend the pictures and articles you find interesting.
• Most of these same websites now let you tag it and send the pictures you find to your Facebook page or other social media sites. You’re only limited by your computer skills!
• After this exercise in seeing and exploring, show these images to others who can help you focus in on the things you like. Let them begin to show you real examples of the colors, furniture and space designs that will work for your project.
• You photo gathering exercise can help others help you create your vision for your room. You can save time and money along with avoid disappointment if you follow this exercise.

Here are some of many magazines you can purchase and cut up, or click on to go to their websites:

Architectural Digest, Dwell, Elle Décor, House Beautiful, Midwest Home, Traditional Home, Veranda

My favorite is Houzz. This site is free and has over 125,000 photographs of rooms in real homes by done by interior designers, architects and home builders. You can browse by style and space, do a word search and save the pictures you like. For example: I typed in “yellow sunroom” and Houzz found 3,087 photos of a sun room or a sunny room with either yellow wall color or yellow fabric colored furniture. Cool! http://www.houzz.com/

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Patrick Van Nice is an interior designer at Patrick Van Nice Interiors in West Des Moines, IA. You can contact him at 515-577-5562 or patrick@pvninteriors.com or visit at www.pvninteriors.com